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Wednesday 19 January 2011

Alice B. Tolkas - The American Elizabeth Daivd


Alice B. Tolkas (pictured above on the right) as the title suggests was in the same league of food writing as Elizabeth David. She was born in San Francisco and spent many of her school years here and in Seattle. She moved to Paris in the early nineteen hundreds and met her long time lover the famous writer Gertrude Stein. Both, hosted a salon hosting many American writers. She remained much in the background of Stein and became her secretary, critic and cook. They were famous lesbian lovers until Steins death in 1945.
After the death of her partner, Toklas began to write her own literary memoir of sorts. This would soon become titled The Alice B Tolkas cookbook. It was and still is considered one of the most famous and classic titles in food writing. She would include in it, many recipes from her travels throughout Europe. Some off which included a recipe for an elaborately decorated poached salmon dish cooked for the famous artist Picasso. Many old and elaborate dishes and some which i find are quite unusually in there methods. Think wild grouse washed and marinated in milk, Singapore ice cream and the famous "hash fudge."




It is a product of her 25 years together with Gertrude and the many recipes she collected entertaining there many famous European artists and musical composers.
It is one of those books which i find quite intriguing and a true curious delight. I have always had a secret fascination for old period cookbooks. She may have only written one or two books but she really is, i think in the same league as Elizabeth David. I really do recommend any young or otherwise mature cook, chef or avid food writer to be transported to this curious period of history and food, in Europe. Seen through the eyes of Alice B. Tolkas.

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