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Thursday 17 June 2010

OTTOLENGHI



I found this book a while back when i was up in Belfast. I kind of by passed it for a while until i realised the true joy passion and creative simplicity of this style of cooking.



Yotam Ottolenghi shares the same passion and determination to highlight the importance of raw untouched fresh produce. He can be compared to chefs such as Skye Gyngell of Petersham Nurseries, Jane Baxter of Riverford Farm, Andy Bunn of Fratelli Fresh, Alice Waters of Chez Panisse dynasty, Dennis Cotter of Cafe Paradiso and many others.



You browse over each page of Yotam books and you are instantly awe inspired by the bold spectrum of colours emanating from the freshest of salads, roasted vegetables, cakes, breads and seductive pastries.



He started of studying philosophy and literature at Tel Aviv University but began to step back from this and re evaluate his possible future pursuing a Phd. Much to his parents shock and confusion decided to a take a gap year, which turned into an enrolment at the Cordon Bleu cookery school in London.



A young career in cooking at the age of thirty lead to what he describes as teary doubt.
Although, more years down the line he would set up a chain of take away or sit in Italian, Mediterranean, middle eastern inspired restaurants.


Joined by his partner Sammi Tamimi who spent most of his life surrounded by food and childhood memories of grandmas cooking, OTTOLENGHI was born.



I guess i kind of regret not finding influences like this earlier on in my career but you are always brainwashed into admiring the french greats and only giving other true innovators a second thought.



Although, they didn't really pop up and be truly noticed until maybe until the last ten years. Only now, organic, natural, bold and beautifully basic cooking as been really brought to the mainstream and marketed to the world.



Yes, Alice Waters pioneered this style of cooking way back in the seventies but Europe was dictated to by Chefs from France, and they presume to say that the French taught the world to cook. I continually question this and truly believe that without the passion of the Italians and Spanish, a love of fresh local produce and an ability to cook with it as simply as possible taught many countries to cook the way they cook today. Wasn't it the Italians that first taught the French to cook.



The same way that Alice Waters, Skye Gyngell, Andy Bunn, Yotam Ottolenghi, Sammi Tamimi and so so many others cook today.


It is sad that many chefs today are seduced by molecular gastronomy and maybe able to make a perfect foam but don't know or appreciate the skills and rewards of cooking a perfect poached egg, without using a stupid temperature controlled water bath.



I am starting to rant on a bit, but what i really want to preach to you is this. If your going to be a chef, learn what you can from each country. Its style of food, influences, produce and cooking methods. Learn the basic science of flavours and textures. Appreciate and learn to love the genuine passion people of each country or continent have for their native cuisine. Capture the opportunity, were possible to cook with sustainable, organic and gm free food. Cook with the seasons and learn the difference between a strawberry in June and one in December flown in from the southern hemisphere and not our native U.K.



Yotam says this in his first book, which i think is pure simplistic genius;



"Most dishes come into their own only at room temperate or warm. This is a chemical fact"



What can you learn from this. Its all about the flavour. Have a genuine passion for quality produce, be able to recognise it just by taste, texture and eye and it will speak for itself. If it is good. Cook in a way that does very little to destroy the natural flavour, texture and colour of food.