The start of spring for any truly passionate chef is like an overdose of culinary prozac from a long winter of heavy root vegetables, meaty braises and hot desserts laden with fruit from autumns store.
It is also a frenzy of activity, for the precious first of the seasons British asparagus. Beware of people who try to slip you the common Peruvian asparagus, usually thick, woody and hiding a big carbon footprint. A trial of aeroplane exhaust from way down in the south American continent, all the way up to the U.K. Food miles, food miles, food miles.
I met a dedicated forager when he came into the restaurant at the beginning of May. He talked passionately about his secret sources of autumn wild mushrooms, wild garlic and wild herbs. He reminded me of another forager in New England, United States. When I worked in a restaurant there, he too would come in and discuss what he could supply us with. Both foragers had one thing in common. They would never give away their sources or the exact location they picked their little treasures.
For me wild garlic, is one of the most rewarding ingredients to enjoy and cook with. Its like a wolf dressed as a lamb. The first taste of a spoonful of raw garlic blended with light olive oil hits you gently. Its soft fresh almost spring onion flavour tickling the senses. Then it hits you hard, a sharp note of its raw garlic character explodes into your palate with a bitter end. You burp garlic for the rest of the day. Although you sacrifice this for its addictive nature with pieces of crusty bread dipped into a bowl of its pesto.
It is also a frenzy of activity, for the precious first of the seasons British asparagus. Beware of people who try to slip you the common Peruvian asparagus, usually thick, woody and hiding a big carbon footprint. A trial of aeroplane exhaust from way down in the south American continent, all the way up to the U.K. Food miles, food miles, food miles.
I met a dedicated forager when he came into the restaurant at the beginning of May. He talked passionately about his secret sources of autumn wild mushrooms, wild garlic and wild herbs. He reminded me of another forager in New England, United States. When I worked in a restaurant there, he too would come in and discuss what he could supply us with. Both foragers had one thing in common. They would never give away their sources or the exact location they picked their little treasures.
For me wild garlic, is one of the most rewarding ingredients to enjoy and cook with. Its like a wolf dressed as a lamb. The first taste of a spoonful of raw garlic blended with light olive oil hits you gently. Its soft fresh almost spring onion flavour tickling the senses. Then it hits you hard, a sharp note of its raw garlic character explodes into your palate with a bitter end. You burp garlic for the rest of the day. Although you sacrifice this for its addictive nature with pieces of crusty bread dipped into a bowl of its pesto.
Towards the end of April and into the middle of may, the elder trees leave you high with the new growth. Its pungent odour from the newly formed branches and leaves warn of its mildly toxic and arsenic characteristics.
Its the flowers which leave an angelic, white coat. Produce a strong pollinated, flora scent and flavour. Pick only the fully formed bunches of flowers and keep the tiny stems which keep the bunches intact. Cordials of this tree blossom, produce the best liquid flower flavour and fritters made with the lightest batter conjure up remembers of childhood fried treats. It always reminds you of a past indulgence but you can never figure out what.
Spring has finally arrived, after a long, cold, snowy, arctic winter. A foragers paradise awaits.
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